Saturday, November 29, 2025

Landscapes: PIndari Glacier Trail

Every time I am dragging myself back on the last day of a tiring trek in the Himalaya, I curse and swear that I’ll never do this again. And yet, here I am, exploring the Pindari Glacier area in the Kumaon. What a beauty!!

The trail begins at village Khati. This is also the starting point for the trek to Sunderdunga Glacier which I managed to do last year. A third trail to Kafni Glacier also starts here. Landslides has made a section of that trail inaccessible for the time being.  Pindari Glacier was a favorite recreation site for colonial administrators during the Raj. As a result, two comfortable guest houses were built along the trail. The first one is at Dwali, a 12 km walk from Khati. The next hut is a further 7 km walk at Phurkiya. A cot and a warm meal is available at both places. The caretaker lives there from April to late November. 

My preference has been to go to these Uttarakhand trails in early mid November. I love that season with its cold weather, clear views, and the occasional snow flurry. And the last day walk from Phurkiya camp to the glacier is breathtaking (it was 6 below zero when we started!!).

Here are some pics of the landscapes along the trail. 

A walk through the forest with a peek of the snow ridges.

Splashes of  yellow in a steep valley.

River terraces.  

T0 is the old river bed. It is now colonized by vegetation. The river then incised or cut down into the sediment creating a bench or a terrace clinging to the valley side. There was a second phase of sediment accumulating on the new river bed followed by another incision, creating the T1 terrace at a lower level. I love to observe these changing behavior of rivers as I walk along. 

Organic red pigments have colored these boulders in the Pindari river bed.  


Dwali campsite which you get to by crossing this rickety wooden bridge over a fast flowing river.  


Ahead of Phurkiya camp, walking towards the glacier, the valley widens, opening up some great views. 


Pindari Glacier, still about 3 km walk away.  


At "Zero Point", standing on a narrow lateral moraine!  


Listen to an afternoon rain shower in a High Himalaya valley, near Phurkiya campsite. 


Above the tree line. These glacial valleys are harsh, desolate, and beautiful.


 Until next time...

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