Landscapes: Sunderdunga Valley Kumaon Himalaya

In mid November, I explored the Sunderdunga valley in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. It was a good rigorous walk through some extraordinarily beautiful landscapes. This area is better known for the famous Pindari Glacier trek. Kafni Glacier is another option for trekkers. All three routes begin at village Khati. The picture taken of the high ranges from nearby Dhakori shows the three glacial valleys.

And here are some more photos of the route with a brief commentary.

The entrance to Sunderdunga valley with the vigorous Sunderdunga river flowing through.

The first day walk to Jatoli village was through golden and green forests.

Village Jatoli in the mid November sun. We stayed there overnight at the Kumaon Mandal tourist guesthouse. They provide excellent clean accommodation. 

About 4 km walk upstream from Jatoli the next day and the land cover changes abruptly. The forest is gone. There is no marked trail from here on and a walk over a rugged boulder strewn region begins. 

We navigate our way over steeply dipping metamorphic rocks and scree cones. 

Numerous rock falls make for tricky passages. You can spot my companions climbing their way up the steep slope. 

After slogging for about 8 km through this terrain we arrive at Kathaliya, situated at about 10,500 feet ASL. We have climbed about 2500 feet from Jatoli to Kathaliya. A small trekkers shed has been constructed here. We stayed there for the next couple of days. 

Next morning, ahead of Kathaliya camp, we encountered the full glory of Sunderdunga valley. Here, it is a occupied by a wide boulder strewn river bed with several small active channels. The earthy colors of rock and grass were in stunning contrast to the blue sky. A solitary shepherd's hut can been seen in the lower right. 

Another view of the valley.

Boulder bed! The surrounding Greater Himalaya are made up of high grade metamorphic rocks. You can spot quartzo- feldspathic gneiss, amphibolite gneiss, mica schist and gneiss, and mica, garnet, and kyanite bearing schist and gneiss in the river bed. Quite a treat to walk along this metamorphic treasure! 

 Crossing the wider channels on rickety wooden bridges was fun! 

Here we are near Maiktoli Top, a high vantage point. Jagdish Bisht, me, Ratan Singh Danu, Lucky, and Kapil. They made my trip safe, comfortable, and memorable.

Why I go to these places. A clear view of the bands of metamorphic rocks exposed along the spectacular cliff face of the Sunderdunga ridge!

 

Village Khati is such a pretty place.

The high bare peaks in the background speak of a worrying trend. Everyone I talked to told me that this trek would have been impossible a few years ago in mid November. The upper part of the valley and the rocky ridges would have been blanketed in a thick snow pack. This area still had not received a single snowfall when I left on 22nd November. The two or three big snowfalls of the year now occur mostly in January and February. The pastoral and agriculture economy depends on a healthy winter snow cover to rejuvenate the high meadows, and to replenish springs and streams.

My guide tells me that Sunderdunga valley is the tougher route amongst the three treks to the nearby glaciers. I am so glad I walked this valley!